Saturday, January 26, 2013

Carrot and Onion Flan






1 onion
1-2 Tbls. butter
2 1/2 cups carrots, chopped into 1" pieces
4 eggs
1/2 cup half and half
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1/8 tsp. crushed mint leaves

Thinly slice the onion. Place in a pan over med-low heat with butter and cover, stirring occasionally. When the onions are soft, remove cover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion pieces are browned.

At the same time, boil the carrot pieces in salted water, until the fat piece of carrot are easy to stab with a fork.

Drain the carrots and puree with the half and half, making it as smooth as you can get it.

Preheat oven to 325 F.

Butter a pie tin and spread the onion evenly over the bottom.

Beat together the eggs, carrot puree, salt, pepper, and mint. Pour evenly over the onions.

Place the pie tin in a larger pan with water in it. Bake until it is a set custard, and a toothpick or knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 60 minutes.

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Apothermum





This is an ancient Roman dish.

Makes 2 servings.

1/2 cup farina (if you can't find plain farina, use unflavored cream of wheat or malt-o-meal)
1 cup water
1 Tbls. pine nuts
2 Tbls. blanched almonds
2 Tbls. raisins
1/4 cup prune juice or grape juice
dates
figs
extra nuts of desired variety

Simmer the juice over low heat until it is reduced to half. Set aside.

Over low heat, whisk together the farina and water. Add the pine nuts and almonds. Cook, stirring, until it reaches desired thickness. (I like it really thick and solid, some want it thinner.)

Stir the raisins and juice into the farina.

Mince the dates and figs, and crush the nuts. Serve in bowls with the fruit and nuts on top.


I  got together with Zappy to do some experimental Roman cooking. We were not very satisfied with  the results of the dish apothermum and I immediately began thinking of what to change.

 The recipe we used interpreted apothermum as a pudding. I found a second recipe that considers it a sauce for meat! However, in the original text, apothermum is in the minced dishes chapter, not the sauce chapter. The two different translations are interesting. One recipe comes up with forcemeats, the other says nuts and fruit. (Latin is weird because isn't it all, "We're pretty sure this word means this" because there are no original speakers?)

Here are the recipes:


Pudding recipe
Spelt or Farina Pudding
Apothermum
Boil spelt with Tor. pignolia nuts and peeled almonds1 [G.‑V. and] immersed in boiling water and washed with white clay so that they appear perfectly white, add raisins, flavor with condensed wine or raisin wine and serve it in a round dish with crushed2 nuts, fruit, bread or cake crumbs sprinkled over it.3
1 V. We peel almonds in the same manner; the white clay treatment is new to us.
G.‑V.: and — which is confusing.
2 The original: confractum — crushed, but what? G.‑V. pepper, for which there is neither authority nor reason. A wine sauce would go well with it or crushed fruit. List. and Goll. Breadcrumbs.
3 This is a perfectly good pudding — one of the very few desserts in Apicius. With a little sweetening (supplied probably by the condensed wine) and some grated lemon for flavor it is quite acceptable as a dessert.


For clarification, the blue text in the first recipe are extrapolations added to the recipe by the translator.  The footnotes are also by the translator, and some refer to the text of a different translation.

Sauce recipe
To make Apothermum: Boil spelt with small nuts and blanched almonds. The almonds should previously been have been soaked in water with the chalk used as polish, so that they are perfectly white. To this add raisins and defritum or raisin wine. Sprinkle with ground pepper and serve in a bowl [with prepared forcemeats].

 Latin text:
10. Apothermum sic facies: alicam elixa nucleis et amygdalis depilatis et in aqua infusis et lotis ex creta argentaria, ut ad candorem pariter perducantur. cui ammiscebis uvam passam, caroenum vel passum, desuper ‹piper› confractum asparges et in boletari inferes.

As you see, the first recipe says that it's spelt or farina. Not sure where they're getting the farina bit, but, in my opinion, that would provide a way better texture than the boiled spelt berries that we tried the first time.

I looked up raisin wine to determine exactly what I needed to try for (because I don't use  alcohol), and it's a sweet dessert wine. Defritum is a sweet syrup made by reducing grape juice (hence the translation into "condensed wine").

I like that the second recipe says small nuts, which may not need to be pine nuts. Is "small nuts" the actual ancient Roman name for pine nuts? The translator for the first recipe seems obsessed with pine nuts because he specifies them pretty much anytime nuts are mentioned.

The nuts, fruit, bread or cake crumbs bit from the first recipe is hypothesized by the translator; so apparently no one really knows what the crushed stuff is that goes on the dish. I like the nuts/fruit idea.

I liked it. It is like eating fancied-up cream of wheat, which is basically exactly what it is.